It is always magical to drive through the winding red-dust roads that cut across Akagera National Park, as the early morning sun illuminates a landscape alive with anticipation, in Rwanda’s Eastern Province. Around this time of the year, as the dry season comes to an end, the savannah in Akagera stretches out in golden waves, dotted with acacia trees, as the distant hills frame the horizon over the park which touches the districts of Kayonza, Kirehe, Gatsibo and Nyagatare. Once you get off the tarmac road from Kabarondo into the gates of Akagera’s wilderness, you are welcomed by nature in its purity. Here, where the air hums with birdsong and the occasional call of a wild animal at a distance, there is one name that has become synonymous with the park – veteran tour guide Peninah Kamagaju. Her story is one that will inspire young girls and women to take up this noble profession which is anchored on Rwanda’s conservation efforts. Kamagaju’s story is not just about leading tourists to spot the Big Five on a good day. Her story is about resilience, pioneering spirit, and a lifelong passion for conservation. Born in 1982, not far from Akagera, and a mother of two, her life has been inseparably tied to nature and the park itself. From a childhood by the lake to a career in tourism “I grew up close to a lake, surrounded by nature,” Kamagaju recalls. “I saw animals like hippos when I was young, and while I didn’t know everything about them, I was fascinated. That inspired me to study tourism and focus on animals and conservation,” she says in a sit-down interview with The New Times. ALSO READ: Kwita-Izina boosts Rwanda’s tourism, says Kamagaju Kamagaju’s early dreams were ambitious but constrained by opportunity. She first imagined becoming a pilot, but there were no local schools or opportunities to pursue that path. Later, she considered nursing, inspired by her uncle, who worked long, exhausting hours at a local hospital. “I saw how he worked, waking up early, working long hours, even at night. It looked very difficult and exhausting, so I changed my mind,” Kamagaju says. Tourism became her calling. However, her choice was met with scepticism. People in her village struggled to understand why a young woman would study hotels and tourism. “They would ask me, ‘Why do you want to study hotels and tourism? What does that mean?’ At the time, people thought it was a strange career. But over time, I explained what I was studying, and they understood. Eventually, they saw that it was important.” Joining Akagera National Park Kamagaju’s journey into professional guiding began in earnest when Akagera National Park opened recruitment in 2006. “After I finished school, I did an internship in Akagera National Park. When the park later announced recruitment, I applied and was accepted. That is how I joined the park in 2006,” she recalls. The early years were far from easy. The park was still developing; there were no maps, no signs, and no proper orientation. Guides were expected to learn on the job, relying on older colleagues to show them the routes. “On our first day, we received uniforms, but no one explained how the park worked. There were no maps, no signs, no proper orientation. We had to depend on older colleagues who had been there before. They would say, ‘If you turn right, you will reach the lake; if you turn left, you will reach the hills.’ That is how we learned our way around,” Kamagaju says. She remembers getting lost with visitors on her first day, a moment that could have undermined her confidence. ALSO READ: Eight reasons why Akagera National Park should be on your bucket list “You can imagine how stressful that was. As a new guide, you are expected to know the park and give confidence to the guests, but instead I got lost. The guests were scared, and I was also nervous. At that time, there were no mobile phones, so you couldn’t just call someone for help. Sometimes we had to ask people from the farms around the park to direct us.” Today, Akagera is dramatically transformed. The Eastern Province-based Park has undergone a total overhaul, under the auspices of Rwanda Development Board (RDB), which promotes the country’s tourism and investment interests, together with African Parks, which manages the park. “The park is like paradise now. It is well organised, with maps, internet, and even Google Maps. No one gets lost anymore. Visitors are much more confident, and we can offer them a proper experience,” Kamagaju says, her pride evident. A day in the life of a guide Kamagaju’s workday starts before the sun rises, as tourists have to hit the park early, if they want to stand a chance to see the big five, which are mostly elusive and require a good strategy to spot. “I wake up at 4:00 a.m. to prepare at home. By 4:30, I’m getting ready for work, making sure I have everything: water bottles, binoculars, books, uniform, everything I will need. By 5:00 or 5:10, I’m already heading to the park,” she explains. Upon arrival, the team sets up daily duties using a rotation system. Even when no visitors arrive immediately, Kamagaju is prepared to provide information and guidance. “Even if I don’t have guests, I am always available to provide information to visitors about the park, the animals, and safety rules,” she says. ALSO READ: How Rwanda uses advanced tech in conservation of national parks Her bilingual abilities make her indispensable, allowing her to guide guests in both French and English. She also has a special passion for birds. “I love birds, so whenever guests come for birdwatching, I am usually assigned to them,” she says. The workday officially begins around 6:30 a.m. and stretches into the evening, often ending around 5:30 p.m. But the hours are more than just logistics; they are filled with observation, teaching, and creating unforgettable experiences. Moments that define a career Over her nearly two decades in Akagera, Kamagaju has witnessed moments both beautiful and terrifying. “Some of the moments are very beautiful, like seeing animals giving birth. Watching a giraffe or a buffalo bring a new baby into the world is something I will never forget,” she recalls with wonder. There have been frightening experiences as well. In 2021, an elephant struck her vehicle during a safari. It was a first for her. “It was very frightening. Guests were shocked, but they stayed calm inside the car until the elephant left. Such accidents can happen when you spend a lot of time in the wild, but it taught me the importance of staying calm and keeping guests calm as well,” Kamagaju explains. She has also hosted VIP visitors, including international football stars from teams like Paris Saint-Germain and Arsenal, moments that brought heightened tension and excitement. “The atmosphere in the park would completely change. Everyone was on high alert, making sure everything was perfect,” she recalls. ALSO READ: Akagera National Park generates over Rwf6bn in revenues Among her best moments was guiding the First Lady Jeannette Kagame on a tour, but she has not been lucky enough to guide President Paul Kagame, who has visited the park several times, but it is something she wishes would happen at some point. The Big Five and beyond Visitors flock to Akagera to see the Big Five: elephants, buffalo, lions, leopards, and rhinos. Lions, in particular, captivate guests as the kings of the savannah, along with Rhinos, which are all now more visible since reintroduction. But Kamagaju emphasises that the park’s unique value also lies in its birds, including the rare shoebill stork, among other rare birds which can be spotted in Akagera. “Many people only care about the large animals, but for me, the small ones are equally important. Everything in nature needs protection,” she says. Her personal favourites are the leopard and hippo, reflecting both admiration for strength and independence and a childhood fascination. “I admire the leopard because it lives alone and survives by itself. It is strong, beautiful, and independent. It shows us that even when you are alone, you can still survive and succeed,” she says. A guide as an ambassador and mentor Kamagaju’s role extends beyond guiding visitors; she is also a conservation ambassador. “As a community guide, we are ambassadors for Rwanda. We encourage people to visit our country, and we inspire young people from our communities to care about conservation,” she says. ALSO READ: Plan underway to boost Akagera National Park’s rhino population Revenue sharing ensures that communities around Akagera benefit directly, reinforcing conservation efforts. Ten percent of park income is allocated to projects like schools, clinics, and water systems. “When parents see that their children can work in the park, they are less likely to go back to poaching or harming wildlife. Instead, they support conservation,” Kamagaju explains. Since 2014, she has helped train a new generation of guides, starting with 14 youth from local communities and growing to around 30. These young guides gain skills and hope for a career in tourism, creating a cycle of empowerment and protection. “We train them and give them hope for a future career in tourism. When parents see that their children can work in the park, they are less likely to harm wildlife,” she says. Guiding first-time visitors Kamagaju takes pride in explaining Rwanda’s unique advantages to newcomers. “Rwanda is small, but everything is here. In some African countries, if you want to see different animals, you have to visit several different parks. But in Rwanda, you can see all of them in one place. In Akagera, we have lions, elephants, rhinos, zebras, giraffes—all in the same park,” she says. Beyond safaris, the country offers gorilla trekking, mountain hikes, rainforests, birdwatching, zip-lining, and canopy walks — all within short distances. “Everything is unique and close together. That is what makes our country special,” Kamagaju notes. She also advises patience on safari. “Sometimes you cannot see everything in one drive, but the animals are always there. With patience, you will enjoy the diversity and beauty of the park,” she says. The rise of domestic tourism Kamagaju is particularly proud of the growth of domestic tourism, with more Rwandans now keen on visiting the park and exploring what it has to offer. “Rwandans themselves are visiting the park more and more. Domestic tourism has grown a lot in recent years. Rwandans are now among the top visitors to Akagera. This makes me very happy because it shows people are appreciating their own natural treasures,” she says. Her message to her compatriots is simple: explore, learn, and value what is close to home. “We encourage not only visiting gorillas, but also safaris, birdwatching, hiking, zip-lining, and canopy walks. Rwanda has developed so many attractions, and I want more Rwandans to travel within their country and enjoy them,” she emphasizes. A lasting legacy Kamagaju’s journey is more than a career. It is a legacy of dedication, mentorship, and conservation. She embodies the spirit of Rwanda’s wildlife tourism: professional, passionate, and inclusive. Her influence is evident in the park itself, the young guides she has trained, and the visitors who leave with unforgettable memories. In Akagera, her name resounds not only as a guide but as a symbol of what is possible when passion meets discipline, when a woman dares to chart her. It is something she hopes will inspire others to join the cause.
