Kigali, a city celebrated for its rich local culture, is at the heart of a culinary transformation. From urban eateries to international flavors, a fusion of tastes is captivating food lovers and reshaping the city’s gastronomic landscape. West African, Middle Eastern, Indonesian, and Russian cuisines are introducing Kigali residents to a new world of flavors. However, behind this culinary wave are chefs, entrepreneurs, and creative minds navigating unique challenges to bring global flavors to Kigali—one plate at a time. In this article, The New Times explores the business side of Kigali’s evolving food scene, delving into customer demand, pricing, and the creative strategies these restaurants use to attract their markets. From cultural food festivals to curated dining experiences, these establishments are reshaping the city’s dining culture. Foul and Falafel: A Taste of South Sudan and the Middle East Foul and Falafel, a South Sudanese restaurant in Nyamirambo’s car-free zone in Biryogo, has been serving traditional South Sudanese and Middle Eastern dishes for two years. Chef and owner Mohamed Khalifa presents a diverse menu, offering over seven different dishes, each with its unique flavors and ingredients. Khalifa sources most of his Middle Eastern ingredients from abroad, particularly staples like chickpeas and tahini. While essential for achieving authentic flavors, he notes that importing these ingredients significantly increases costs. “Most of the ingredients we use are imported. Sometimes, we buy them from Sharma Supermarket, which helps us access specialized items we can’t find locally. It’s expensive, but necessary to maintain quality,” Khalifa explains. To ensure authenticity, Khalifa personally trains his staff on cooking foreign dishes, a process that takes one to two weeks depending on the dish. He sees potential for local businesses to contribute to ingredient supply, emphasizing that cultivating chickpeas and sesame in Rwanda would lower costs and reduce dependence on imports from the UAE. “It would be great if local businesses could start producing ingredients like chickpeas and sesame. This would not only lower prices but also boost local agriculture and create more options for us as chefs,” he adds. L’Abidjanaise: Bringing West African Cuisine to Kigali L’Abidjanaise, a West African restaurant in Remera, is known for its signature dish, Yassa Yassa—chicken cooked with onions and various spices. The restaurant has been in operation for over six years, though its early days and the Covid-19 pandemic posed significant challenges. Ange Alfred Gbobia, the restaurant’s manager, says the idea to open a West African restaurant in Kigali came from his mother, who noticed a gap in the market when she first visited Rwanda a decade ago. “She saw an opportunity and decided to open a place offering Ivorian food,” Gbobia explains. Launching the restaurant amid the pandemic was difficult, but the team adapted by offering delivery services to keep the business afloat. Beyond Covid-19, introducing Ivorian cuisine to the Rwandan market was another hurdle. “Many customers were unfamiliar with the dishes. Some didn’t find them appealing at first, but over time, as they tried them, they started coming back just for the Ivorian food,” he recalls. While some seasonings and ingredients are available locally, others must be imported from Ivory Coast and Cameroon. “We use companies like DHL to bring ingredients here. Our customer base has grown, with 75% of our clientele being Rwandan and the rest consisting of foreigners or visiting Ivorians,” he adds. Borneo Indonesian Restaurant: Kigali’s gateway to Indonesian cuisine Borneo Indonesian Restaurant offers an authentic taste of Indonesia with dishes such as Sayur Tumis Tahu & Tempe (mixed vegetables cooked with coconut), Bakwan (fried vegetables), Coco Shrimp, and Nasi Goreng Ayam (chicken fried rice). Pierre Ngendahimana, the chef and manager, highlights the challenges of being Kigali’s only Indonesian restaurant. “It was tough at first because customers weren’t familiar with our food. But those who loved it brought friends, and within two years, our clientele grew,” he says. Positive reviews from the Indonesian community and food enthusiasts have further boosted the restaurant’s reputation. “We sometimes host members of the Indonesian community who recognize the authenticity of our food. Their reviews help attract more customers,” he adds. Amri Priyadi, a 36-year-old Indonesian backpacker visiting Kigali for two days, discovered Borneo on Google and was pleasantly surprised by its authenticity. “The portions are huge, and the spice levels are exactly what I’m used to. It feels like home!” Priyadi says. Ngendahimana notes that while 20% of the restaurant’s ingredients are sourced locally, the majority are imported, including seafood from Mombasa via a supplier called Alpha Choices. “Our seafood—crabs, shrimp, tuna, and ladyfinger—arrives in Kigali within five days. However, when stock is delayed, it affects our menu. With the rise of Asian restaurants, suppliers are increasing their shipments, which helps,” he explains. Burger Bros and Boriska: A Russian twist on Kigali’s food scene Evgenii Pukhov and Boris Kachanov, two Russian entrepreneurs, opened Burger Bros in Kigali two years ago, driven by their love for burgers. A year later, they launched Boriska, a restaurant specialising in Russian and European cuisine, featuring pelmeni, blini, borscht, and Reuben sandwiches. Evgenii notes that training their Rwandan chefs to master Russian cooking techniques took a few months. “Teaching them wasn’t difficult. Perfection is a journey, but now they have mastered our dishes. Our pelmeni are indistinguishable from the original Russian dumplings,” he says. The duo prioritizes locally sourced ingredients to maintain affordability without compromising quality. “We evaluate ingredient costs, track market prices, and use a smart pricing model. We source Rwandan cheese made by French artisans and work with local suppliers. Everything is locally sourced to keep prices fair and ensure availability,” Evgenii explains. Like any business, Burger Bros and Boriska faced challenges, particularly in maintaining supplier relationships. “In the beginning, suppliers inflated their prices because they didn’t think we were here to stay. But over time, we proved ourselves, and now we get better deals,” Boris shares. They also had to adapt to Kigali’s evolving food scene, particularly in Kisimenti, where competition has intensified. “The market keeps changing, but through hard work and dedication, we’ve built a loyal customer base,” Evgenii adds. As Kigali’s international dining scene grows, these restaurants are proving that global flavors can thrive in the city. Despite challenges with ingredient sourcing, customer adaptation, and market competition, they continue to redefine Kigali’s food culture, one dish at a time.
