It was already at 5:00pm on a Friday, and none of my friends wanted to go clubbing with me; something I had been asking for almost a week. My assignment was to sample Kigali’s night life, following the easing of restrictions on Covid-19. You may think Kigalians love their sleep if your friends are boring, just like mine. “I will be in bed by 10:00pm,” one of them told me during our phone call. I didn’t judge because most of us are looking forward to Friday for different reasons. But evidently, only a few of us plan to sleep early on Fridays. Last week, for instance; may make you wonder much about Kigali’s population! Hundreds were at Imbuga City Walk for a continental Choir Festival, others were at Canal Olympia to watch Nigerian superstar Timaya perform at the popular Kigali Jazz Junction and lovers of traditional music were at Muyango n’Imitali’s concert. Don’t forget the 2022 Kigali Night Run that was attended by almost two thousand people and of course, the lit spot, Gisimenti car free area. At Christian Life Assembly (CLA), hundreds or perhaps thousands had attended the night worship known as Africa Let’s Worship (AFLEWO). All these events were highly attended, and of course, the sleeping population was probably dreaming when the rest of us were just beginning to have fun. Because I would have led myself to the sleeping temptation if I waited for at least 11:00pm at home, bar-hopping was the best option. At 9:00pm, I was already at a bar located in Gisimenti, but not in the car-free zone. The fun was fair; meeting people and getting to know what has been happening around town, also known as “tea,” and acting shocked to some stories I already knew. I was lucky a friend had stepped in, willingly. The good thing with gossip is that you lose count of time. Midnight clocked in like a snap, and I had to go to the car-free zone. Within less than 10 metres of the zone, there was a white tent branded “Agakingirizo ku buntu” for “condom for free” and in my mind, I thought this was long overdue. There seemed to be an almost mass exodus of people who were probably heading home after a vibrant Friday night, and some chairs looked empty. It was loud and as usual, every bar playing different genres of music at maximum volume. Still, you wouldn’t judge that it was empty. We had to then head to the club; the main reason we were still up past midnight. Transport is not something you would complain about at that time and place. Cab drivers and taxi-moto operators are basically competing for customers. We were driven by a kind sounding cab driver to one of the famous clubs in Kigali. Cars were lined up, some already parked and others dropping off people. At the entrance, there was a queue of people buying tickets. It was already exciting. We entered the club at around 12:40am and the DJ was asking if there were Congolese in the house before he played ‘Un Coup’ by Fally Ipupa and Dadju and the crowd went mad. Meanwhile, my heart had almost stopped when I entered because of how loud it was. There is no way the club population was less than 100, and everyone seemed to be having a good time; singing a long and dancing, as they sipped on their drinks, mostly beer. Although I was having fun, I couldn’t breathe. I had taken my warmest sweater because as I had planned, the night was going to be long, and weather in Kigali has been somewhat confusing; with rain just showing up unexpectedly. A cashmere with a blanket sewn inside is what I wore, a T-shirt underneath, a pair of jeans, and sneakers, ready to face the cold, so I thought. Not only was I sweating to my toes, I was also ashamed! Kigalians can dress really nicely, like the way we see in movies, and I bet everyone can spot those who didn’t get the assignment. After about an hour spent in dancing and wiping sweat, evenly, I went out to take a break but my body felt a bit numb. It felt like only my body was out but my soul was still inside the club. I struggled to reach a seat, the nearest I could see in the bar. In a state of subconscious, I had to greet several people I knew; former classmates, friends of friends, acquaintances, among others. You know how everyone knows everyone in Kigali either literally or through stories. Sitting in the middle of the bar, I noticed beautiful, happy young people in their mid-twenties to late-thirties. It looked like a family gathering where all the cousins had come to drink and smoke. It seemed like everyone was a regular there. But then it was clocking to 1:30 am and there was no sign of the party ending. More people were actually coming, and the counter was evidently overwhelmed. At exactly 2:00 am, the music stopped and disappointment was clear on people exiting the club. While most of them were getting one for the road and mingling, I overheard that the after party was at a famous hotel. But bars and clubs are supposed to close at 2:00 AM, I thought. Indeed, the most recent cabinet resolutions issued on March 4 read “Curfew is lifted. However, night clubs, live bands, bars, receptions and betting activities shall close by 2:00AM.” The resolutions however, don’t specify how long these facilities should close. And so my friend and I hit the road to that hotel. We could spot from a far that on its bar balcony, it was already lit. It was like we were late for a party. The hotel guards told us “welcome” and its parking was jammed. While everyone else is rushing to not have a bar or club closed on them, clearly the “cool kids” always have a way to enjoy themselves. There was an outdoor silent disco going on, and it was already clocking to 3:00 AM. However, fun in Kigali, also known as “kurya show” is not for the fainthearted. At least I did my best to chase it until morning, and it was really worth it. I had to go to bed so I would be comfortable with “Baturage bo mu mudugudu wa … umuganda urabera…” announcement in the following three hours to attend the community work which incidentally resumed this past Saturday after two years owing to Covid. Kigalians can really have fun; and it is just amazing how people with different tastes and beliefs have found their go-to places and events after the two-year-long Covid-19 restrictions. Even those who just want to enjoy their sleep make the best out of it.
