With tea and beer, there is no time to sleep during CHOGM
Tuesday, June 21, 2022
Gisimenti car free zone was full to the brim as revelers came to enjoy beer, good food and music till late. Photos by Willy Mucyo

IF YOU SLEPT ON MONDAY NIGHT, just know you were the only one. In fact, how could you? Who knew that the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM) would keep us in meeting halls during day and in the street during night?

Well, clearly, delegates remembered to pack their dancing shoes for the CHOGM People’s Festival, because how else can they explain how the party is already lit at 8:00 pm in different places of the city?

I arrived at the colourful Biryogo car free zone in Nyarugenge district at 8:00 pm, and I didn’t even bother asking for a chair because every chair was occupied. But thousands were standing too, so who was I to think of sitting? Getting to shove people left and right to make it to my usual restaurant was an issue too.

Everyone had their eyes in the junction, where the stage of performance was, and for some reason, almost everyone in Nyamirambo, where Biryogo is, only partly seemed to be there.

At this point, people who have been to Biryogo at least a couple of times would know they are in this open air food and drink zone even when blindfolded. The aroma of coffee and other tea herbs is always pulling you there.

People are usually seated at communal tables in front of tea bars and restaurants in the middle of the road, laughing out loud, while others were walking through to wherever they only know.

Others, especially the elderly, are always playing board games such as ‘Ludo’ and ‘Igisoro’ in a spot informally restricted for them, every single day of the week.

Surprisingly, while Fridays are usually the party days in Rwanda, or at least Saturdays, this time it was Monday! And I am not talking about the ‘party monsters,’ -although at this point, Kigalians proved how they silently are.

Seeing how many people were holding their cups of tea as they sang along some songs and danced to others, it occurred to me that maybe, Kigali residents locked their houses to attend a concert that was going on in Biryogo. Can Kigali have more people living there?

Aimable Harerimana who works at Issa Coffee shop couldn’t believe his eyes. He told The New Times that while things have already been going well, Monday night was extraordinary.

"You can also see it yourselves that things are going well. It is usual for people to have a good time, but today is extraordinary because we are expecting guests. Different DJs are playing music. You can see people are happy,” Harerimana said.

Sonia and Thomas, a couple originally from Germany has lived in Rwanda for more than three years.

Biryogo is their hangout spot once in a while, because of the calmness, food, and atmosphere that makes it easy for them to have a conversation. But I guess they can only mention after CHOGM, because of how loud it was. They nonetheless, couldn’t miss the show on stage. 

"Today we love it even more. Usually, it’s a little bit quieter, you can enjoy the food and have a nice talk but today, and it’s just amazing. It’s perfect, it’s wonderful,” Sonia told to The New Times.

When I left the place an hour later, I didn’t spot any guests, a.k.a delegates. The locals had taken Biryogo over with their tea, brochettes and chapattis, and nothing would stop them from dancing and cheering on their favourite DJs.

Who would know that this predominantly Muslim community was where Belgian colonialists would discard Muslims from? Biryogo stands as an icon for resilience of Muslims in Rwanda, and perfectly pictures diversity, especially on Monday night.

Nevertheless, if people in Biryogo thought they were having even half of the fun that was in Gisimenti, those who were there should be scoffing. I think people left this cobblestone road that rains beers in the weekend, took a shower and went to the following day’s sessions. I pity whoever tried to sleep for a few minutes after.

‘Being on fire’ is an understatement of what was going on in Gisimenti which is usually a car free zone during the weekend and has also made a name for itself, when it comes to music, brochettes, beautiful happy people, and alcohol, the only thing Biryogo will take when the world runs out of tea. 

In fact, sources say that breakfast in this weekend car free zone is for expats, while drinks at night are for the locals.

I’m sure people who did not understand why CHOGM was held in high regard and were there last night caught a glimpse of it, in the People’s Festival in the two car free zones.

Local artistes like Kenny Sol and Symphony band helped people enjoy themselves, and you could tell that delegates, especially from the Youth Forum, had a night to remember.

I left slightly after midnight, and the party was only getting started. More people were coming, and one of my sources says she left the place at 3:00 in the morning, when hundreds were still going.

However, the fun continues! Monday was just a glimpse of what is in store because several other social and networking events have been underlined for locals and delegates. With the Kigali Night run, the CHOGM Street Festival and exploring the fun car free zones among others, will not let us sleep, at least as long as CHOGM is still ongoing.

After the successful implementation of the car-free-zone, now known as Imbuga City Walk, the City of Kigali then put in place Biryogo car free zone and then Gisimenti weekend car free zone, which are the busiest hangout spots especially during the weekend.