Some of us grew up listening to the famous Marvin Gaye’s "Ain’t No Mountain High Enough” whose lyrics I found questionable after I found that mountain. Its name is Kanyinya, located in Nyarugenge district, and it is not even the highest in Rwanda alone. For someone who grew up in the ‘land of a thousand hills’, one may think hiking skills are natural, but no, they aren’t!
It had only been an hour and a half since we started the trek, and a shoe was being carried away by the strong Yanze River. We were all worried because we hadn’t even completed half of the journey, so how could have the owner hiked eight more kilometers of the rocky mountain barefooted? Lucky enough, a member of the "rescue team” run on the shore and stretched to pick it.
We had started the three-four hour hike at around 7:00 in the morning, but first, we did some simple warm up exercise. In my head, I wondered why a friend who had invited me had told me not to show up anymore when I asked if they served free food after the hike. But there I was, part of me convincing myself that they never had such a determined athlete like me before, so they threaten people with their fair hiking skills.
Commonly known as ‘The A-Team,’ the Adventurous Team of more than 130 members has hiked most of the steepest mountains there are in Rwanda, with their major hiking spots being Kabuye, Fumbwe and their favorite, Rulindo, since 2019.
This group hikes mostly on Saturdays, and none of them knows where they will go but their leader whom they call "Captain” (who also preferred anonymity). He only informs them on a WhatsApp group where they will gather up, and off they go.
On that Saturday when I went, we were told to meet at Gitikinyoni in front of the famous Riverside Motel but commonly known as ‘Arsenal’. When Captain said we would hike Kanyinya-Yanze, a couple of people didn’t seem excited because "it was so easy.”
We started off on a leveled ground which was very disappointing for someone who wanted hardcore hiking. Initially, my plan was to not be in the last group. But as the mountain got steeper, I was only grateful that I hadn’t had a heart failure by then. Only an hour later, I wanted to cry. "What was I thinking? A young girl waking up before dawn just to climb mountains, for what?” I thought to myself. Whenever I thought: "this is it! I cannot go higher,” the harder it only got.
The only sweet thing about the hike was the Mango juice I was sipping, but slowly so that I don’t die of thirst. But thank God for the rescue team.
New comers are assigned to members of the ‘rescue team.’ Their job is to basically hold your hand when you get tired and pull you or push you up the mountain when your legs decide to stop working.
Captain says that being aware that energy levels vary; it would be a pity if some people don’t finish a hike. "The rescue team is made up of brave hikers who commit to help those who are not able to move faster. They encourage them, wait for them, and help them to get to the top and finish the hike. We always hike with the concept of the Latin phrase in our mind; ‘nemo resideo’ or ‘leave no one behind.’ We ensure that we hike as a team,” Captain said.
Indeed, there is neither bridge nor river that is not crossed as a team, mostly in pairs. Yanze river, for instance. Experienced hikers found the shallowest part of the river so we could cross smoothly. But we had to take off our shoes, throw them across the river, and fold trousers as much as possible. "Let today be the day we only fish shoes, please,” Captain said as he warned people to keep their phones safe, because some have sunk them by accident before.
After crossing Yanze is when the mountain then looked like a wall, but to be clear, coming down the rocky mountain is just as hard as climbing it. We would hold tight tree branches and grass for support, because the stone that looks like it can hold you can actually slide you down the mountain like a ball.
We passed through coffee crops, beans, and irish potatoes. It is also where I learnt that when someone is cultivating, we don’t greet them "Muraho” for "Hello”. We say "Murakora, murakora” for "You are working” and it is meant to encourage that person. The farmers were friendly, and would point directions to us saying "dore ni aha baciye” for "they just passed here.”
The hike wasn’t only rough, at least we laughed a lot from jokes made by some team members. We also had bananas and water when we reached the peak, before we came down the mountain.
Captain told The New Times that the A-Team hikes for mental and physical wellness, discovering and exploring Rwanda’s hills and the lifestyle surrounding it, but also the team’s dynamic connections that end up being created.
The Hiking exercise which is gaining momentum just recently has not always been Rwandans’ favourite. While high jumping, shooting arrows, and throwing spears were enjoyed in pre-colonial Rwanda, walking long distances was for the poor. The wealthy had servants in charge of carrying them wherever they wanted to go.
"At the time, people were used to walking and they could really travel long distances on foot. During the colonial period, for example, people would walk to remote areas of Uganda to find decent jobs. It wasn't for fun or sport. They had no other means of transportation,” Maurice Mugabowagahunde, a Historian told The New Times.
While the government has put effort in encouraging citizens to embrace the sports culture- through Friday sports hours for public servants and the car free day, it is argued that many still lag. Other people have become creative with it too, like the A-Team.
However, they still face some challenges, yet more people would join them if solved. "We want to approach the City of Kigali to get some help in our plan to plant trees on different hills in this town. We would also love to have sign posts on those mountains to make it easy for everyone to find the trails,” Captain said.
He also encouraged people to try hiking a mountain or two, to even see how beautiful the country looks from up. "It’s a great experience and the best way to find out just how great is to take the first hike and the rest becomes history. We would like everyone to take that first step and experience a positive change in both their physical and mental wellbeing,” Captain said.