Camping on the slopes of Mount Karisimbi
Saturday, March 30, 2019
Mount Karisimbi. Courtesy.

It took me and my fellow hikers about three hours to reach the campsite set up 3,500 meters above sea level. The plan was to rest and resume hiking in the morning of the second day but I thought it was too early to call it a day. My hiking teammates agreed with me. Our guide and the security team didn’t have any objection.

It is advisable to spend some time at the camp, acclimating to the limited supply of oxygen, before proceeding to the top. Rapid exposure to low density air can cause a high altitude sickness which drains energy like an illicit brew-induced hangover. We ignored advice from experts and refused to follow their script. Our goal was to reach the summit as soon as possible and waiting was the last thing we wanted to hear. After a short break, we made the final push to the summit.

I lacked experience in climbing mountains. As a result, I made one rookie mistake after another throughout this physically challenging activity. Instead of using hiking boots, I thought my old sneakers would serve me just fine. Initially, the Nike Air Force 1s I was wearing felt comfortable but proved to be inappropriate when the steep ground became slippery.

On the summit, temperature level flirted with zero and my ill-advised choice of clothes didn’t help. While descending back to the camp in darkness, I was the only one who didn’t have a flashlight. When we arrived at the camp, the bonfire was lit and dinner was served. Things looked perfect until I found out that I had forgotten to pack a sleeping bag.

I was the least equipped tourist in the group. May be, the least equipped Karisimbi hiker ever. When we left the summit, it was cold enough to turn water into ice. It wasn’t that bad at the camp but I was still freezing. I sat by the fire with other campers until late. Since it is illegal to cut trees in the park, we used firewood brought to the camp by porters from Kinigi.

Finally, I slept in a tent placed in a wooden structure covered by corrugated iron sheets. Before I slept, I wore everything I had packed and all clothing donations I had received from fellow campers.

When we woke up in the morning, it was sunny and warm. Visibility couldn’t be better. I had a clear view of the neighbouring Bisoke and Mikeno mountains. The latter is located in the DRC. Sabyinyo wasn’t as visible and its location obstructed possible views of Gahinga and Muhabura from the camp.

Bisoke’s crater looked like a slightly tilted bowl about to pour its content on one side of the mountain. Mikeno has a sharp pinnacle-shaped summit with a relatively lower subsidiary peak. Getting to Mikeno’s summit would require rock climbing equipment.

The night I spent on Mount Karisimbi was memorable. While camping, I shared stories and drinks with like-minded adventurers. That was as close as we could get to the oral tradition embraced by our ancestors.

We didn’t have Wi-Fi but we found a better connection.

The author is an adventurer on a mission to discover what Rwanda has to offer. Follow his awe-inspiring journey on the Sunday Times and exposure.rw.