Forget about the Congolese Kitenge and the Nigerian agbada dress code. The unfolding fashion trend that some critics have predicted will set a new fashion storm soon is Rwanda’s Umushanana- the traditional Kiyarwanda attire worn by females. 

The attire comes in different colours and consists of a sash drape that is worn over the shoulders plus a wrap skirt on which the drape smoothly falls to give a beautiful and elegant look.

At social functions, it is understandably the preferred attire. Traditionally, Umushanana has always been the preferred attire at social events like weddings. But over the years, the popular attire has evolved into a fashion trend beyond the confines of tradition. It is a dress modern fashionistas have placed high on their list of recommendations. Every woman’s wardrobe is incomplete without the cultural attire. At formal events, women including VIPs turn up in the revered dress weaved with a unique story about Rwanda’s culture. 

As the AU summit delegates from across Africa enjoy the beauty and ambience of Kigali, one of the things worth knowing about the history and tradition of Rwanda is the story behind this unique dress which is fast becoming popular with both Rwandans and foreigners. 

Fashion critics say the story of Umushanana’s rise to fame is an amazing one- as the attire is not only loved by the elderly but it is also warmly embraced by the young from all walks of life beyond Rwanda.

Today, more people seem to have grasped the splendor of going traditional at any event because it is common to find people donning the magnificent attire at national and international formal events.

Is the rise of Umushanana, a tale of modernization blending with culture? Is it one of the many aspects through which modernity is embracing culture?

Margret Mukangwije an elderly resident of Gahini says Umushanana is as old as the Rwandan culture. It has always been a part of the Rwandan culture even long before the colonialists came.

"In Rwanda, that outfit holds a lot of value as it is regarded as one of our cultural symbols. Any woman dressed in the outfit is accorded a lot of respect and regarded as decent and pure,” she says.

Mukangwije says that as time evolved, even young people came to embrace the beauty of the dress.

"Traditionally, the dress was mostly worn by women who were older in age but as times are changing, young women are also feeling proud to wear their cultural outfit which is tremendous,” she added.                   

Before modernity set in, the attire was designed in two pieces and it was made out of animal skins locally known as impu and later when the colonialists came, different materials were introduced though the design didn’t change; the material did go through a transformation. Nowadays the cultural dress comes in one piece with a varying array of colors selected depending on one’s choice.

The art of making Umushanana 

It is notably known that Umushanana is mostly made out of silky and polished materials as this helps to pull out the soft and elegant part of the outfit.

Assuma Wibabara, the proprietor of Kaliza Fashion and Design House explains that the Umushanana is mostly made from imported textile and the cloth is tailored depending on the size of the person. The attire can cost as low as Rwf 15,000 and as high as Rwf200,000 depending on the quality of the material.

"It’s special in a way that it can be vibrant depending on the way we play around with the design and color…. obviously depending on the occasion the client is going to. With national events, most clients ask that the Umushanana is blended with the colors of the national flag to bring about a sense of patriotism,” she adds. 

The way you drape the piece around your body determines how you will look. The cloth should be draped properly; otherwise it can look untidy and clumsy. Pleats should be even and neatly tucked.

She explains that the fabric used is vital and will affect how a person will look in the outfit, for example, stiff cotton fabrics give a heavy look so these are not suitable for size plus women.

What other Rwandans think of the Umushanana

Rodgers Munyaneza is an accountant with Access Bank. He describes Rwanda as one of the countries with very rich culture adding that the pride that its citizens have for their country sets it apart. 

"Rwandans are beautiful people and the love that they hold for their country means a lot in terms of the richness their culture holds. The cultural attire possesses a lot of value to us as Rwandans and I am so proud of our women for appreciating the pride in it,” Munyaneza says.

Nina Umuhoza, a local artist agrees. She says that Umushanana is exceptional and magnificent; and looks great on everyone, making it popular in Rwanda and beyond borders.

"It is part of our tradition and it’s also decent. I appreciate the way Rwandans are still holding onto their culture even with the young generation. We take pride in wearing Umushanana and it’s something that really unites everyone; rich or poor, old or young,” Umuhoza says.

To singer Ben Mugisha famously known as ‘The Ben’, Umushanana as an outfit is the kind that will attract the right kind of attention if carefully picked out. 

"Traditional attire is rarely elegant and that is exactly what makes Umushanana stand out because it makes one look elegant and unique,” he says. 

Like any other young man, Mugisha looks forward to seeing his future bride clad in the elegant dress when time for his traditional wedding eventually comes.

Vestine Uwamahoro; a procurement officer says that old is golden. As Umushanana gets better with time more and more people including non-Rwandans are embracing the dress which is cultural treasure.

"Some aspect of our culture has slowly faded but when it comes to our cultural attire, it is here to stay. What makes this even more comforting is how decent Umushanana is. Who would want to stop wearing it?” she asks. 

editorial@newtimes.co.rw